Mexico City
SLEEP
Airbnb La Condessa
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We stayed in the leafy La Condessa neighborhood in this modern flat with clean, minimal interiors and a wonderful roof deck. It was in a rather quiet part of La Condessa, but right across the street from the fantastic Lardo cafe and near a great organic grocery store.
La Valise
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For our next visit (which will be soon!) I'd chose this boutique hotel in La Roma neighborhood on the hip Colima street, which has gorgeous interiors and friendly amenities, surrounded by our favorite shops and restaurants.
Campos Polanco
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West of the Anthropological museum, in the slightly fancier Polanco Neighborhood, Campos Polanco is another one of my try-next-time hotels. A larger hotel than La Valise with more social spaces, it's also surrounded by hip shops and cafes.
Our airbnb in La Condessa. Photo courtesy Mariana / airbnb
A room at La Valise. Photo courtesy La Valise
Lounge in Campos Polano Hotel. Photo courtesy Campos Polanco
VISIT
Frida Kahlo House
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Visiting the Kahlo house was on my wishlist seemingly forever, and it was beautiful to see in person. The museum sets a path through the home where she grew up with her sisters and parents and then where she lived with Diego Rivera from 1929-1954. With all her physical setbacks, she brought sculpture, art, books, nature, and culture in an inspiring scene around her. Book tickets in advance.
Luis Barragan House & Studio
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Our favorite visit of all was to the Luis Barragan house, which I pined to see since reading The Architecure of Happiness long ago. An architect active in the 1930's-1950's, Barragan created a brilliant balance of space, warmth, bright color, and calm. Tickets were super hard to book since availability opens randomly, but be persistent, it's worth it!
National Museum of Anthropology
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An incredible collection of art, artifacts, and textiles in a beautiful architectural space that blends indoor and outdoor collections in spacious, breezy rooms. Very inexpensive admission ($4!), and worthy of a long day of discovery. Open Tuesday - Sunday.
Palace of Fine Arts
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https://maps.app.goo.gl/fLzedRb3vrWJ1Bnc8
A fantastic blend of Art Deco, Art Nouveau, and Neoclassical architecture housing famous murals by Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco, and others, as well as two outstanding contemporary exhibits. We happened to go on a free Sunday which made the museum packed with locals, which I highly recommend—rather than feeling like a quiet, sterile museum, it was alive and bustling.
The garden of the Frida Kahlo House
Staircase inside the Luis Barragan house
Outdoors at the Museum of Anthropology
Skull at the Museum of Anthropology
The Man Controller of the Universe, mural at the Palace of Fine Arts, Diego Rivera, 1952. Photo courtesy of the Palace of Fine Arts
EAT
Lardo
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An excellent cafe for all meals of the day, on a corner in the leafy La Condessa neighborhood. Make reservations or go early; they also have a takeaway coffee window with fresh focaccia and pastries.
Masala y Maiz
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Chefs Norma Listman and Saqib Keval, with heritage in Mexico, India, and Africa, combine an array of ingredients in a delicious mix. Dark, hip interiors. Excellent vegan options. Make a reservation.
Panadería Rosetta
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Wonderful walk-up cafe by the chef from Rosetta; we bought a delicious loaf of rye our first day there and ate it for breakfast every day with avocados and lime, while frequenting the cafe several times throughout the week.
Cucurucho coffee
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A sweet coffee shop in La Condessa if you find yourself in the neighborhood in need of a good pourover
El Parnita
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A lunch and dinner restaurant with delicious Mexican food, great service, and a hip international crowd. Note: It's upstairs! Go through the steel door to the right of a street cafe, and up the stairs.
Rosetta
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Rosetta was one of the first reservations we made upon booking our trip, and I accidentally saved it to my calendar as the wrong time zone! Alas, we missed our table, but I still swooned for their interiors and menu. Please let me know how it is!
Green Corner grocery
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A well-stocked little health food grocer in La Condessa, perfect if you are staying in to cook, with basics like lentils and produce. Has it's own little lunch spot attached to it.
Lardo's warm interiors
The hip Masala y Maiz in La Roma
Upstairs at El Parnita for lunch
The counter at Panaderia Rosetta
SHOP
Xinu
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Oh my goodness, I almost don't want to tell you anything about this shop so as to not ruin the experience! Amazing perfumes, lotion, incense in immaculate experience of interiors. Ring the bell to be let in.
Escópica eyewear
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A very hip local eyewear company with 2 locations, one selling other international brands as well. Quick processing, go early and they'll fill your prescription while you vacation, or pick up some sunnies for the bright climate.
Picu
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We stubmled across this outstanding shop that mixes custom scents into lotions, perfumes, and shampoos of your choice while you wait in its serene interiors. Next time I'll stock up on gifts.
Selección Marsella interiors
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Elegant little interiors shop with high-quality goods, many produced locally. Entrance is on Havre Street.
Carla Fernández clothing
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A local clothing designer with a couple locations in the city, selling fashion and accessories created in collaborations with local designers. Lots of "one size" oversized pieces. The wait staff at Masala y Maiz sported CF shirts.
Guinand Condesa
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A sweet boutique that is both a fabric store and custom tailor, with a few pieces to buy, and options to make their patterns in any in fabric of your choice.
Melladin Market
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An indoor market with a hundred food and flower vendors; we went in search of locally-made hot sauces, which did not disappoint.
Tianguis de Antiguedades Lagunilla antique market
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A Sunday antiques market with a great selection of antique brass, enamelware, furniture, art, and artifacts. We arrived at opening and many vendors were not yet set up, so I'd recommend arriving an hour or two into the day.
The incredible display at Xinu
Soaps at Picu
Statuary at the entrance to Picu
My favorite piece of clothing at Carla Fernández. Photo courtesy Carla Fernández
Masks at the Sunday Tianguis de Antiguedades Lagunilla market
